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Why Wood Siding Requires A Different Technique

In Part 1 of the series, we looked closely at the importance of chlorinating and cleaning your home before painting. The tips and methods outlined for the reason that article were primarily focused on identifying mildew and how to effectively destroy the mildew spore before pressure cleaning so as to quit it from instantly returning and leading to problems with the brand new coating.

These procedures were directed at homes that will be repainted. The methods and the methods for chlorinating a timber surface, such as wood siding are very much different for many factors. Understanding why refinished real wood ought to be cleaned differently will make perfect sense by the time you finish this content.

As you might recall in Part 1, anytime a surface has been recoated with a clear finish or any type of semi-transparent stain, the finished product will only look good if the substrate looked great before it had been coated. The reasons because of this should be apparent, because a obvious or semi-transparent finish is seen through.

With a real wood or masonry surface that is being recoated with a typical paint, less care is necessary when cleaning because it will be covered. A scorched earth approach can be applied to the killing of mildew when you repaint, but it will not work when dealing with the many sealers and stains typically used for solid wood.

How To Properly Chlorinate Wood Siding

Given that we understand the reasons for treating these wood surfaces differently, let's feel the correct method to use so that your finished product and the end result looks professionally done. Timber siding or any outside wood surfaces will routinely have a variety of visible staining and flaws which will range in varying degrees of severity. The power washing near me in NNJ most typical will be fungus, gray weathered patinas, and corrosion or rust stains from fasteners.

A few of these stains, just can't be removed 100% of the time. The success or failure in removing these flaws is dependent on the amount of time since it was last refinished and various http://query.nytimes.com/search/sitesearch/?action=click&contentCollection®ion=TopBar&WT.nav=searchWidget&module=SearchSubmit&pgtype=Homepage#/New Jersey other factors. A flawless finish isn't always possible, nevertheless, you can certainly make it look much better after that it did, and in most cases you may make it look fantastic. My suggestion is to completely clean and rinse a little sample section first. Let it dry and then seal or stain it with the merchandise you intend to use. Then you can make a determination concerning whether it's acceptable or not.

I'll list the key points for chlorinating and cleaning real wood below with explanations and descriptions for every. Again, none of this is rocket technology, and none of these methods are tough to do... but they are essential nonetheless, and result from years of experience.

High Pressure Versus Low Pressure

Ruthless washing is never a good thing when it comes to wood. It's Alright to still use a power washer, but the machine ought to be used even more as a heavy duty, glorified power wash instead of a cutting tool. The normal technique of bearing down on real wood with a power washer is an improper technique and really should be avoided because it may damage the wood and possibly force drinking water into areas that cannot properly drain. The correct method is by using low pressure methods for the application of bleach and for the rinsing procedure.

Power Washer versus Pump-Up Sprayer

For timber siding or overhangs that look like in good shape with very little mildew or weathered spots, a pressure washer utilizing a pick-up tube for the bleach solution will continue to work just fine generally. Nevertheless, if the siding is noticeably flawed with lots of mildew, then a pump-up sprayer will do the best work. As I mentioned in Part 1, with all the pressure washer's pick-up tube for drawing the bleach from the bucket, it will be diluted at least 10 to at least one 1 by enough time it comes out of the tip. Utilizing a pump-up backyard sprayer allows you to control the effectiveness of the solution.

Normally, I would recommend a 50-50 mix of drinking water with store bought bleach and a small amount of TSP replacement for detergent when using the backyard sprayer. if the wood is usually in really bad shape, or if the 50-50 mix isn't getting rid of the mildew within 20 minutes, change to full strength bleach. The TSP substitute can be bought at any paint shop and at most hardware shops. Painters have been using it for years and it's really very inexpensive. Just adhere to the directions on the package and you'll be fine.

Bottom To Top, Bottom To Top, Bottom To Top!

Applying the bleach solution from bottom to top is the most important, simply no compromise rule that needs to be followed if you intend to finish your wood siding with a clear semi-transparent finish. When you apply the bleach option from bottom to best, you eliminate the risk of streaking because the bleach solution will only be able to drip and run onto a previously wetted out surface area.

If you were to use the bleach from the top down, it'll be working and dripping onto a dry surface area and can probably streak and stain the hardwood, leaving very difficult or impossible flaws to remove. I cannot stress enough the need for this simple but extremely important approach, and if I could add anything compared to that it might be to go corner to corner aswell. So, to re-cap.... it's bottom to best and corner to part!

Putting It All Together

You should have a far greater understanding of how exactly to remove mold, mildew and weathered patinas from wood siding properly, enabling you to reverse the clock on the aged looking wood finish of your house. In Part 3 of the series, I'll demonstrate the best way to remove color from masonry areas and more tips about how to complete the energy washing after the chlorinating step is normally complete.