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Why Wood Siding TAKES A Different Technique

In Part 1 of this series, we looked closely at the importance of chlorinating and cleaning your house before painting. The suggestions and methods outlined in that article were primarily focused on identifying mildew and how exactly to effectively destroy the mildew spore before pressure cleaning so as to stop it from instantly returning and leading to problems with the new coating.

These procedures were directed at homes that are going to be repainted. The guidelines and the methods for chlorinating a timber surface, such as wood siding are very much different for many factors. Understanding why refinished hardwood should be cleaned differently can make perfect sense by enough time you finish this article.

As you may recall in Part 1, anytime a surface area has been recoated with a crystal clear finish or any kind of semi-transparent stain, the finished item will only look good if the substrate looked good before it had been coated. The reasons because of this should be apparent, because a very clear or semi-transparent finish can be seen through.

With a solid wood or masonry surface that's being recoated with a standard paint, less care is necessary when cleaning since it will be covered. A scorched earth approach can be applied to the killing of mildew when you repaint, but it will not work when dealing with the various sealers and stains typically used for hardwood.

HOW EXACTLY TO Properly Chlorinate Wood Siding

Now that we understand the reason why for treating these real wood surfaces differently, let's feel the correct solution to use so that your finished product and the end result looks professionally done. Solid wood siding or any exterior wood surfaces will typically have a variety of visible staining and flaws that will range in varying levels of severity. The most common will be fungus, gray weathered patinas, and corrosion or rust stains from fasteners.

Some of these stains, just can't be removed 100% of the time. The success or failure in eliminating these flaws is dependent on the amount of time since it was last refinished and various other factors. A flawless surface finish isn't always possible, but you can certainly make it look far better then it did, and in most cases you can make it look fantastic. My suggestion is to completely clean and rinse a little sample section first. Allow it dry and seal or stain it with the product you intend to use. Then you can certainly make a determination concerning whether it's acceptable or not.

I'll list the key factors for chlorinating and washing real wood below with explanations and descriptions for each. Again, none of this is rocket research, and none of these methods are hard to accomplish... but they are important nonetheless, and come from years of experience.

High Pressure Versus Low Pressure

High pressure washing is never a good thing when it comes to wood. It's Fine to still make use of a power washer, but the machine should be used even more as much duty, glorified power rinse rather than a cutting device. The typical technique of bearing down on real wood with a power washer can be an improper technique and really should be avoided because it may damage the wood and perhaps force drinking water into areas that cannot correctly drain. The right method is by using low pressure methods for the application of bleach and for the rinsing process.

Power Washer versus Pump-Up Sprayer

For wood siding or overhangs that seem to be in good form with hardly any mildew or weathered staining, a pressure washer utilizing a pick-up tube for the bleach solution will work just fine in most cases. However, if the siding is definitely noticeably flawed with lots of mildew, then a pump-up sprayer can do the best work. As I mentioned in Part 1, with all the pressure washer's pick-up tube for drawing the bleach from the bucket, it will be diluted at least 10 to at least one 1 by the time it comes from the tip. Utilizing a pump-up backyard sprayer allows you to control the effectiveness of the solution.

Normally, I recommend a 50-50 mixture of drinking water with store bought bleach and a small amount of TSP substitute for detergent with all the garden sprayer. if the wood is certainly in really bad shape, or if the 50-50 mix is not eliminating the mildew within 20 minutes, switch to full power bleach. The TSP alternative can be bought at any paint shop and for the most part hardware stores. Painters have been using it for years and it's very inexpensive. Just adhere to the directions on the box and you will be fine.

Bottom To Top, Bottom To Top, Bottom level To Top!

Applying the bleach solution from https://www.washingtonpost.com/newssearch/?query=New Jersey bottom to top is the most important, simply no compromise rule that has to be followed if you plan to finish your wooden siding with a clear semi-transparent finish. When you apply the bleach option from bottom to best, you eliminate the chance of streaking because the bleach solution will only be able to drip and run onto a previously wetted out surface area.

If you were to use the bleach from the very best down, it will be running and dripping onto a dry surface area and can probably streak and stain the hardwood, leaving very hard or impossible flaws to eliminate. I cannot stress enough the need for this simple but very https://gumroad.com/u4tlkoc448/p/20-gifts-you-can-give-your-boss-if-they-love-pressure-washing-near-me important approach, and if I could add anything compared to that it would be to go corner to corner as well. So, to re-cap.... it's bottom to top and corner to corner!

Putting EVERYTHING Together

You should have a far greater understanding of how exactly to remove mold, mildew and weathered patinas from wood siding properly, enabling you to turn back the clock on the aged looking wood finish of your home. In Part 3 of the series, I'll show you the best way to remove color from masonry surfaces and more tips about how to complete the energy washing after the chlorinating step can be complete.