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Why Wood Siding Requires A Different Technique

In Part 1 of this series, we looked closely at the importance of chlorinating and cleaning your house before painting. The tips and methods outlined in that article were primarily focused on identifying mildew and how to effectively kill the mildew spore before pressure cleaning so as to stop it from immediately returning and causing problems with the brand new coating.

These procedures were fond of homes that are going to be repainted. The steps and the methods for chlorinating a timber surface, such as wood siding are much different for many reasons. Understanding why refinished real wood ought to be cleaned differently can make perfect feeling by the time you finish this article.

As you might recall partly 1, anytime a surface area is being recoated with a clear finish or any type of semi-transparent stain, the finished item will only look great if the substrate looked great before it was coated. The reasons because of this should be apparent, because a obvious or semi-transparent finish is seen through.

With a timber or masonry surface that's being recoated with a standard paint, less care is needed when cleaning because it will be covered. A scorched earth approach can be applied to the killing of mildew when you repaint, but it won't work when coping with the various sealers and stains typically used for timber.

How To Properly Chlorinate Wood Siding

Given that we understand the reason why for treating these solid wood surfaces differently, let's go through the correct solution to use to ensure that your finished item and the end result looks professionally done. Hardwood siding or any external wood surfaces will typically have http://w0lctnh909.booklikes.com/post/3246218/17-reasons-why-you-should-ignore-power-washing-new-jersey a range of visible stains and flaws that will range in varying examples of severity. The most typical will be fungus, gray weathered patinas, and corrosion or rust spots from fasteners.

A few of these stains, just can't be removed 100% of the time. The success or failing in getting rid of these flaws would depend on the amount of time since it was last refinished and various other factors. A flawless finish isn't always possible, nevertheless, you can certainly make it look far better after that it did, and in most cases you may make it look fabulous. My recommendation is to clean and rinse a small sample section first. Allow it dry and then seal or stain it with the merchandise you intend to use. Then you can make a determination as to whether it is acceptable or not.

I'll list the key points for chlorinating and washing wood below with explanations and descriptions for each. Again, none of the is rocket science, and none of these methods are tough to do... but they are essential nonetheless, and result from years of experience.

RUTHLESS Versus Low Pressure

Ruthless washing is never a good thing when it comes to wood. It's Okay to still use a power washer, however the machine should be used more as much duty, glorified power rinse rather than a cutting device. The normal technique of bearing down on timber with a power washer is an improper technique and really should be avoided since it may damage the wood and perhaps force water into areas that cannot properly drain. The correct method is to use low pressure options for the use of bleach and for the rinsing procedure.

Power Washer versus Pump-Up Sprayer

For solid wood siding or overhangs that look like in good shape with hardly any mildew or weathered staining, a pressure washer using a pick-up tube http://query.nytimes.com/search/sitesearch/?action=click&contentCollection®ion=TopBar&WT.nav=searchWidget&module=SearchSubmit&pgtype=Homepage#/New Jersey for the bleach solution will work just fine in most cases. However, if the siding is definitely noticeably flawed with plenty of mildew, then a pump-up sprayer can do the best work. As I mentioned partly 1, with all the pressure washer's pick-up tube for drawing the bleach from the bucket, it will be diluted at least 10 to 1 1 by the time it comes out of the tip. Using a pump-up backyard sprayer allows you to control the effectiveness of the solution.

Normally, I recommend a 50-50 mixture of water with store bought bleach and a small amount of TSP replacement for detergent with all the backyard sprayer. if the hardwood is definitely in really bad form, or if the 50-50 mix is not eliminating the mildew within 20 minutes, change to full strength bleach. The TSP alternative can be purchased at any paint shop and at most hardware stores. Painters have already been using it for a long time and it's very inexpensive. Just stick to the directions on the container and you will be fine.

Bottom To Top, Bottom To Top, Bottom level To Top!

Applying the bleach answer from bottom to top is the most important, no compromise rule that has to be followed if you intend to finish your wood siding with a clear semi-transparent complete. When you apply the bleach solution from bottom to best, you eliminate the chance of streaking since the bleach solution is only going to have the ability to drip and run onto a previously wetted out surface.

If you were to apply the bleach from the very best down, it will be working and dripping onto a dry surface area and can probably streak and stain the solid wood, leaving very hard or impossible flaws to remove. I cannot stress enough the need for this simple but extremely important approach, and if I could add anything compared to that it would be to go part to corner as well. So, to re-cap.... it's bottom to top and corner to corner!

Putting EVERYTHING Together

You should have a far greater understanding of how to remove mold, mildew and weathered patinas from wood siding properly, enabling you to reverse the clock on the aged looking wood finish of your house. In Part 3 of this series, I'll show you the easiest method to remove color from masonry areas and more tips on how to complete the energy washing following the chlorinating step is definitely complete.