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Why Wood Siding Requires A Different Technique

In Part 1 of the series, we looked closely at the importance of chlorinating and cleaning your house before painting. The ideas and methods outlined in that article were primarily focused on determining mildew and how to effectively destroy the mildew spore before pressure cleaning so as to prevent it from instantly returning and causing problems with the brand new coating.

These procedures were fond of homes that are going to be repainted. The steps and the techniques for chlorinating a solid wood surface, such as for example wood siding are much different for many reasons. Understanding why refinished hardwood ought to be cleaned differently will make perfect feeling by the time you finish this article.

As you might recall partly 1, anytime a surface area has been recoated with a clear finish or any type of semi-transparent stain, the finished product will only look great if the substrate looked good before it had been coated. The reasons because of this should be obvious, because a very clear or semi-transparent finish can be seen through.

With a timber or masonry surface that is being recoated with a standard paint, less care is needed when cleaning because it will be covered. A scorched earth approach could be applied to the killing of mildew when you repaint, but it won't work when coping with the various sealers and staining typically used for hardwood.

HOW EXACTLY TO Properly Chlorinate Wood Siding

Now that we understand the reason why https://www.liveinternet.ru/users/w0pkuby189/post474765321/ for treating these real wood surfaces differently, let's feel the correct method to use so that your finished product and the outcome looks professionally done. Hardwood siding or any exterior wood surfaces will routinely have a range of visible staining and flaws that will range in varying levels of severity. The most common will be mold and mildew, gray weathered patinas, and corrosion or rust spots from fasteners.

A few of these stains, simply cannot be removed 100% of the time. The success or failing in removing these flaws is dependent on the length of time because it was last refinished and additional factors. A flawless finish isn't always possible, but you can certainly make it look far better after that it did, and generally you can make it look fantastic. My suggestion is to clean and rinse a small sample section first. Let it dry and seal or stain it with the merchandise you intend to use. Then you can make a determination as to whether it is acceptable or not.

I'm going to list the key points for chlorinating and washing real wood below with explanations and descriptions for every. Again, none of this is rocket technology, and none of the methods are difficult to accomplish... but they are essential nonetheless, and come from years of experience.

High Pressure Versus Low Pressure

High pressure washing is never a good thing when it comes to wood. It's Fine to still make use of a power washer, however the machine ought to be used more as much duty, glorified power wash rather than a cutting tool. The normal technique of bearing down on real wood with a power washer can be an improper technique and should be avoided since it may damage the wood and perhaps force drinking water into areas that cannot correctly drain. The right method is to use low pressure options for the application of bleach and for the rinsing procedure.

Power Washer versus Pump-Up Sprayer

For hardwood siding or overhangs that appear to be in good form with hardly any mildew or weathered staining, a pressure washer utilizing a pick-up tube for the bleach solution will continue to work just fine generally. However, if the siding is noticeably flawed with plenty of mildew, then a pump-up sprayer can do the best work. As I mentioned partly 1, when using the pressure washer's pick-up tube for drawing the bleach from the bucket, it will be diluted at least 10 to 1 1 by the time it comes out of the tip. Utilizing a pump-up garden sprayer enables you to control the effectiveness of the solution.

Normally, I would recommend a 50-50 mix of drinking water with store bought bleach and a little amount of TSP replacement for detergent with all the backyard sprayer. if the hardwood can be in really bad form, or if the 50-50 mix isn't getting rid of the mildew within 20 minutes, change to full strength bleach. The TSP substitute can be bought at any paint store and at most hardware stores. Painters have already been using it for a long time and it's really very inexpensive. Just stick to the directions on the box and you'll be fine.

Bottom To Top, Bottom level To Top, Bottom To Top!

Applying the bleach alternative from bottom to top is the most important, no compromise https://www.washingtonpost.com/newssearch/?query=New Jersey rule that needs to be followed in the event that you intend to finish your wood siding with a clear semi-transparent finish. When you apply the bleach remedy from bottom to top, you eliminate the risk of streaking because the bleach solution is only going to be able to drip and operate onto a previously wetted out surface area.

If you were to use the bleach from the top down, it will be running and dripping onto a dry surface area and will probably streak and stain the timber, leaving very hard or impossible flaws to remove. I can't stress enough the importance of this simple but very important approach, and easily could add anything to that it might be to go part to corner aswell. So, to re-cap.... it's bottom to best and corner to part!

Putting EVERYTHING Together

You should have a much better understanding of how exactly to remove mold, mildew and weathered patinas from wood siding properly, helping you to turn back the clock on the aged looking wood finish of your house. In Part 3 of this series, I'll demonstrate the ultimate way to remove color from masonry surfaces and more tips about how to complete the power washing after the chlorinating step is definitely complete.