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Why Wood Siding TAKES A Different Technique

In Part 1 of the series, we looked closely at the importance of chlorinating and cleaning your house before painting. The ideas and methods outlined in that article were primarily focused on identifying mildew and how exactly to effectively eliminate the mildew spore before pressure washing so as to stop it from immediately returning and leading to problems with the brand new coating.

These procedures were directed at homes that are going to be repainted. The measures and the methods for chlorinating a hardwood surface, such as for example wood siding are much different for many reasons. Understanding why refinished solid wood ought to be cleaned differently will make perfect sense by enough time you finish this article.

As you might recall in Part 1, anytime a surface is being recoated with a crystal clear finish or any type of semi-transparent stain, the finished product will only look great if the substrate looked great before it was coated. The reasons for this should be apparent, because a clear or semi-transparent finish is seen through.

With a solid wood or masonry surface that's being recoated with a typical paint, less care is necessary when cleaning because it will be covered. A scorched earth approach could be applied to the eliminating of mildew when you repaint, but it won't work when dealing with the various sealers and staining typically used for timber.

How To Properly Chlorinate Wood Siding

Given that we understand the reason why for treating these real wood surfaces differently, let's feel the correct solution to use to ensure that your finished product and the outcome looks professionally done. Real wood siding or any exterior wood surfaces will routinely have a range of visible staining and flaws which will range in varying examples of severity. The most common will be mold and mildew, gray weathered patinas, and corrosion or rust stains from fasteners.

Some of these stains, simply cannot be removed 100% of the time. The success or failure in eliminating these flaws is dependent on the length of time because it was last refinished and various other factors. A flawless finish is not always possible, nevertheless, you can simply make it look much better then it did, and generally you may make it look fantastic. My recommendation is to completely clean and rinse a small sample section first. Let it dry and seal or stain it with the product you intend to use. Then you can make a determination as to whether it is acceptable or not.

I'm going to list the key factors for chlorinating and washing real wood below with explanations and descriptions for each. Again, none of this is rocket research, and none of the methods are tough to accomplish... but they are essential nonetheless, and come from years of experience.

RUTHLESS Versus Low Pressure

Ruthless washing is never a good thing with regards to wood. It's Okay to still make use of a power washer, however the machine should be used more as much duty, glorified power rinse instead of a cutting tool. The normal technique of bearing down on wood with a power washer is an improper technique and should be avoided since it may damage the wood and perhaps force drinking water into areas that cannot correctly drain. The correct method is by using low pressure options for the use of bleach and for the rinsing procedure.

Power Washer versus Pump-Up Sprayer

For solid wood siding or overhangs that appear to be in good form with hardly any mildew or weathered stains, a pressure washer using a pick-up tube for the bleach solution will continue to work just fine generally. However, if the siding is usually noticeably flawed with lots of mildew, then a pump-up sprayer can do the best work. As I mentioned partly 1, with all the pressure washer's pick-up tube for drawing the bleach from the bucket, it'll be diluted at least 10 to at least one 1 by enough time it comes out of the tip. Utilizing a pump-up garden sprayer enables you to control the strength of the solution.

Normally, I recommend a 50-50 mixture of drinking water with store bought bleach and a small amount of TSP replacement for detergent when using the garden sprayer. if the solid wood is certainly in really bad shape, or if the 50-50 http://www.thefreedictionary.com/New Jersey mix is not removing the mildew within 20 minutes, change to full power bleach. The TSP alternative can be bought at any paint shop and for the most part hardware shops. Painters have already been using it for years and it's really very inexpensive. Just follow the directions on the box and you'll be fine.

Bottom To Top, Bottom level To Top, Bottom level To Top!

Applying the bleach solution from bottom to best is the most important, no compromise rule that has to be followed in the event that you plan to finish your wood siding with a clear semi-transparent complete. When you apply the bleach answer from bottom to best, you eliminate the chance of streaking because the bleach solution is only going to be able to drip and operate onto a previously wetted out surface area.

If you were to use the bleach from the top down, it will be jogging and dripping onto a dry surface and can probably streak and stain the timber, leaving very difficult or impossible flaws to remove. I cannot stress enough the need for this simple but extremely important approach, and easily could add anything to that it might be to go part to corner as well. So, to re-cap.... it's bottom to best and corner to corner!

Putting It All Together

You should have a far greater understanding of how exactly to remove mold, mildew and weathered patinas from wood siding properly, enabling you to reverse the clock on the aged looking wood finish of your home. In Part 3 of this https://www.liveinternet.ru/users/w0pkuby189/post474765321/ series, I'll show you the ultimate way to remove paint from masonry areas and more tips about how to complete the power washing following the chlorinating step is definitely complete.