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Why Wood Siding Requires A Different Technique

In Part 1 of the series, we looked closely at the importance of chlorinating and cleaning your house before painting. The guidelines and methods outlined for the reason that article were mainly focused on identifying mildew and how to effectively destroy the mildew spore before pressure cleaning so as to quit it from instantly returning and leading to problems with the brand new coating.

These procedures were fond of homes that will be repainted. The techniques and the methods for chlorinating a timber surface, such as wood siding are very much different for many reasons. Understanding why refinished solid wood should be cleaned differently can make perfect sense by the time you finish this content.

As you might recall partly 1, anytime a surface area has been recoated with a clear finish or any kind of semi-transparent stain, the finished product will only look good if the substrate looked good before it was coated. The reasons for this should be obvious, because a obvious or semi-transparent finish is seen through.

With a timber or masonry surface that is being recoated with a typical paint, less care is necessary when cleaning since it will be covered. A scorched earth approach could be applied to the killing of mildew when you repaint, but it will not work when coping with the various sealers and spots typically used for real wood.

How To Properly Chlorinate Wood Siding

Now that we understand the reasons for treating these hardwood surfaces differently, let's feel the correct method to use so that your finished product and the outcome looks professionally done. Real wood siding or any outside wood surfaces will typically have a variety of visible staining and flaws that may range in varying degrees of severity. The most typical will be mold and mildew, gray weathered patinas, and corrosion or rust staining from fasteners.

Some of these stains, just can't be removed 100% of that time period. The success or failure in getting rid of these flaws is dependent on the amount of time because it was last refinished and additional factors. A flawless end is not always possible, but you can simply make it look much better then it did, and generally you can make it look fabulous. My suggestion is to completely clean and rinse a small sample section first. Allow it dry and seal or stain it with the merchandise you intend to make use of. Then you can make a determination as http://www.bbc.co.uk/search?q=New Jersey to whether it's acceptable or not.

I'm going to list the key factors for chlorinating and cleaning hardwood below with explanations and descriptions for each. Again, none of the is rocket research, and none of the methods are hard to accomplish... but they are essential nonetheless, and result from years of experience.

High Pressure Versus Low Pressure

High pressure washing is under no circumstances a good thing with regards to wood. It's Alright to still use a power washer, however the machine should be used even more as much duty, glorified power rinse rather than a cutting tool. The https://www.liveinternet.ru/users/w0pkuby189/post474765321/ normal technique of bearing down on solid wood with a power washer is an improper technique and should be avoided since it can damage the wood and perhaps force drinking water into areas that cannot correctly drain. The correct method is by using low pressure options for the application of bleach and for the rinsing process.

Power Washer versus Pump-Up Sprayer

For hardwood siding or overhangs that appear to be in good shape with very little mildew or weathered stains, a pressure washer utilizing a pick-up tube for the bleach solution will work just fine in most cases. Nevertheless, if the siding is usually noticeably flawed with plenty of mildew, then a pump-up sprayer can do the best job. As I mentioned in Part 1, with all the pressure washer's pick-up tube for drawing the bleach from the bucket, it will be diluted at least 10 to at least one 1 by the time it comes from the tip. Using a pump-up backyard sprayer enables you to control the effectiveness of the solution.

Normally, I would recommend a 50-50 mix of drinking water with store bought bleach and a small amount of TSP substitute for detergent when using the backyard sprayer. if the wood is definitely in really bad form, or if the 50-50 mix isn't removing the mildew within 20 minutes, switch to full strength bleach. The TSP alternative can be purchased at any paint shop and at most hardware shops. Painters have already been using it for years and it's very inexpensive. Just stick to the directions on the box and you will be fine.

Bottom To Top, Bottom To Top, Bottom To Top!

Applying the bleach solution from bottom to top is the most important, simply no compromise rule that has to be followed if you plan to finish your wooden siding with a clear semi-transparent complete. When you apply the bleach answer from bottom to top, you eliminate the chance of streaking because the bleach solution is only going to have the ability to drip and operate onto a previously wetted out surface area.

If you were to use the bleach from the top down, it will be jogging and dripping onto a dry surface area and can probably streak and stain the wood, leaving very hard or impossible flaws to eliminate. I cannot stress enough the importance of this simple but very important approach, and easily could add anything compared to that it might be to go part to corner aswell. So, to re-cap.... it's bottom to best and corner to part!

Putting It All Together

You should have a far greater understanding of how to remove mold, mildew and weathered patinas from wood siding properly, helping you to turn back the clock on the aged looking wood finish of your home. In Part 3 of the series, I'll demonstrate the best way to remove paint from masonry areas and more tips on how to complete the energy washing after the chlorinating step can be complete.