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Why Wood Siding TAKES A Different Technique

In Part 1 of this series, we looked closely at the need for chlorinating and cleaning your home before painting. The tips and methods outlined in that article were mainly focused on identifying mildew and how to effectively destroy the mildew spore before pressure cleaning so as to prevent it from immediately returning and causing problems with the brand new coating.

These procedures were directed at homes that are going to be repainted. The steps and the methods for chlorinating a solid wood surface, such as wood siding are much different for many factors. Understanding why refinished solid wood ought to be cleaned differently will make perfect feeling by the time you finish this article.

As you may recall partly 1, anytime a surface area has been recoated with a clear finish or any kind of semi-transparent stain, the finished product will only look great if the substrate looked great before it was coated. The reasons because of this should be obvious, because a clear or semi-transparent finish is seen through.

With a wood or masonry surface that's being recoated with a standard paint, less care is necessary when cleaning since it will be covered. A scorched earth approach could be applied to the killing of mildew when you repaint, nonetheless it won't work when coping with the various sealers and stains typically used for wood.

How To Properly Chlorinate Wood Siding

Now that we understand the reasons for treating these hardwood surfaces differently, let's go through the correct solution to use so that your finished product and the outcome looks professionally done. Solid wood siding or any external wood surfaces will routinely have a range of visible stains and flaws that may range in varying degrees of severity. The most common will be fungus, gray weathered patinas, and corrosion or rust stains from fasteners.

Some of these stains, just can't be removed 100% of that time period. The success or failing in eliminating these flaws is dependent on the length of time since it was last refinished and various other factors. A flawless end isn't always possible, nevertheless, you can certainly make it look far better after that it did, and generally you can make it look fantastic. My suggestion is to completely clean and rinse a small sample section first. Allow it dry and seal or stain it with the merchandise you intend to use. Then you can certainly make a determination concerning whether it is acceptable or not.

I'll list the key factors for chlorinating and washing hardwood below with explanations and descriptions for each. Again, none of this is rocket science, and none of these methods are tough to accomplish... but they are essential nonetheless, and come from years of experience.

High Pressure Versus Low Pressure

High pressure washing is never a good thing with regards to wood. It's Fine to still use a power washer, but the machine should be used more as a heavy duty, glorified power rinse rather than a cutting device. The normal technique of bearing down on timber with a power washer is an improper technique and should be avoided because it can damage the wood and perhaps force drinking water into areas that cannot correctly drain. The right method is to use low pressure options for the use of bleach and for the rinsing procedure.

Power Washer versus Pump-Up Sprayer

For wood siding or overhangs that seem to be in good shape with very little mildew or weathered staining, a pressure washer utilizing a pick-up tube for the bleach solution will continue to work just fine generally. However, if the siding is certainly noticeably flawed with plenty of mildew, a pump-up sprayer can do the best job. As I mentioned partly 1, when using the pressure washer's pick-up tube for drawing the bleach from the bucket, it will be diluted at least 10 to at least one 1 by the time it comes out of the tip. Using a pump-up garden sprayer allows you to control the strength of the solution.

Normally, I would recommend a 50-50 mixture of water with store bought bleach and a little amount of TSP replacement for detergent with all the garden sprayer. if the hardwood is in really bad form, or if the 50-50 mix is not eliminating the mildew within http://deaneuxl884.fotosdefrases.com/7-simple-secrets-to-totally-rocking-your-pressure-washing-near-me 20 minutes, switch to full strength bleach. The TSP alternative can be purchased at any paint store and at most hardware shops. Painters have been using it for years and it's very inexpensive. Just adhere to the directions on the box and you will be fine.

Bottom To Top, Bottom level To Top, Bottom level To Top!

Applying the bleach option from bottom to best is the most significant, simply no compromise rule that needs to be followed if you intend to finish your wooden siding with a clear semi-transparent complete. When you apply the bleach alternative from bottom to top, you eliminate the risk of streaking since the bleach solution will only have the ability to drip and run onto a previously wetted out surface.

If you were to apply the bleach from the top down, it'll be jogging and dripping onto a dry surface area and can probably streak and stain the hardwood, leaving very hard or impossible flaws to eliminate. I cannot stress enough the importance of this simple but very important approach, and easily could add anything compared to that it might be to go corner to corner as well. So, to re-cap.... it's bottom to top and corner to corner!

Putting It All Together

You should have a much better understanding of how exactly to remove mold, mildew and weathered patinas from wood siding properly, enabling you to reverse the clock on the aged looking wood finish of your house. In Part 3 of the series, I'll show you the easiest http://www.thefreedictionary.com/New Jersey method to remove paint from masonry areas and more tips on how to complete the energy washing after the chlorinating step is normally complete.