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Why Wood Siding TAKES A Different Technique

In Part 1 of the series, we looked closely at the importance of chlorinating and cleaning your house before painting. The guidelines and methods outlined in that article were mainly focused on identifying mildew and how exactly to effectively kill the mildew spore before pressure washing so as to stop it from immediately returning and leading to problems with the brand new coating.

These procedures were directed at homes that will be repainted. The steps and the methods for chlorinating a real wood surface, such as for example wood siding are much different for many reasons. Understanding why refinished solid wood ought to be cleaned differently will make perfect feeling by the time you finish this content.

As you may recall in Part 1, anytime a surface area is being recoated with a crystal clear finish or any type of semi-transparent stain, the finished product will only look great if the substrate looked great before it was coated. The reasons because of this should be obvious, because a apparent or semi-transparent finish can be seen through.

With a solid wood or masonry surface that's being recoated with a standard paint, less care is needed when cleaning since it will be covered. A scorched earth approach could be applied to the eliminating of mildew when you repaint, nonetheless it will not work when dealing with the various sealers and staining typically used for timber.

How To Properly Chlorinate Wood Siding

Now that we understand the reasons for treating these hardwood surfaces differently, let's go through the correct solution to use so that your finished product and the outcome looks professionally done. Real wood siding or any external wood surfaces will typically have a variety https://www.washingtonpost.com/newssearch/?query=New Jersey of visible spots and flaws that may range in varying degrees of severity. The most typical will be fungus, gray weathered patinas, and corrosion or rust stains from fasteners.

A few of these stains, just can't be removed 100% of the time. The success or failing in removing these flaws is dependent on the length of time since it was last refinished and additional factors. A flawless end is not always possible, but you can simply make it look far better after that it did, and generally you can make it look fantastic. My suggestion is to completely clean and rinse a little sample section first. Let it dry and seal or stain it with the product you intend to use. Then you can certainly make a determination concerning whether it is acceptable or not.

I'm going to list the key points for chlorinating and washing wood below with explanations and descriptions for every. Again, none of this is rocket research, and none of the methods are hard to do... but they are essential nonetheless, and result from years of experience.

RUTHLESS Versus Low Pressure

High pressure washing is never a good thing with regards to wood. It's Alright to still use a power washer, however the machine ought to be used even more as much duty, glorified power rinse rather than a cutting device. The typical technique of bearing down on solid wood with a power washer is an improper technique and should be avoided since it can damage the wood and perhaps force water into areas that cannot correctly drain. The correct method is to use low pressure methods for the application of bleach and for the rinsing procedure.

Power Washer versus Pump-Up Sprayer

For real wood siding or overhangs that seem to be in good form with very little mildew or weathered stains, a pressure washer utilizing a pick-up tube for the bleach solution will work just fine generally. However, if the siding is definitely noticeably flawed with plenty of mildew, a pump-up sprayer will do the best work. As I mentioned in Part 1, with all the pressure washer's pick-up tube for drawing the bleach from the bucket, it will be diluted at least 10 to at least one 1 by enough time it comes out from the tip. Utilizing a pump-up backyard sprayer allows you to control the effectiveness of the solution.

Normally, I would recommend a 50-50 mix of water with store bought bleach and a little amount of TSP replacement for detergent when using the backyard sprayer. if the real wood is definitely in really bad shape, or if the 50-50 mix is not getting rid of the mildew within 20 minutes, change to full strength bleach. The TSP substitute can be bought at any paint store and at most hardware stores. Painters have already been using it for years and it's really very inexpensive. Just follow the directions on the container and you will be fine.

Bottom To Top, Bottom To Top, Bottom level To Top!

Applying the bleach answer from bottom to best is the most significant, no compromise rule that needs to be followed if you plan to finish your wooden siding with a clear semi-transparent complete. When you apply the bleach alternative from bottom to best, you eliminate the chance of streaking since the bleach solution will only be able to drip and operate onto a previously wetted out surface area.

If you were to use the bleach from the top down, it'll be jogging and dripping onto a dry surface and will probably streak and stain the solid wood, leaving very hard or impossible flaws to eliminate. I can't stress enough the need for this simple but extremely important approach, and if I could add anything compared to that it might be to go part to corner as well. So, to re-cap.... it's bottom to best and corner http://deaneuxl884.fotosdefrases.com/7-simple-secrets-to-totally-rocking-your-pressure-washing-near-me to part!

Putting It All Together

You should have a far greater understanding of how to remove mold, mildew and weathered patinas from wood siding properly, enabling you to reverse the clock on the aged looking wood finish of your home. In Part 3 of the series, I'll show you the easiest method to remove paint from masonry surfaces and more tips about how to complete the power washing following the chlorinating step is usually complete.