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Why Wood Siding Requires A Different Technique

In Part 1 of the series, we looked closely at the importance of chlorinating and cleaning your house before painting. The ideas and methods outlined in that article were mainly focused on identifying mildew and how to effectively destroy the mildew spore before pressure washing so as to prevent it from immediately returning and leading to problems with the new coating.

These procedures were directed at homes that will be repainted. The techniques and the methods for chlorinating a solid wood surface, such as for example wood siding are very much different for many factors. Understanding why refinished hardwood ought to be cleaned differently will make perfect feeling by the time you finish this content.

As you might recall in Part 1, anytime a surface area has been recoated with a clear finish or any kind of semi-transparent stain, the finished product will only look good if the substrate looked great before it was coated. The reasons because of this should be apparent, because a clear or semi-transparent finish is seen through.

With a hardwood or masonry surface that is being recoated with a typical paint, less care is necessary when cleaning because it will be covered. A scorched earth approach could be applied to the killing of mildew when you repaint, but it won't work when dealing with the various sealers and staining typically used for solid wood.

How To Properly Chlorinate Wood Siding

Now that we understand the reason why for treating these wood surfaces differently, let's go through the correct solution to use to ensure that your finished item and the end result looks professionally done. Timber siding or any external wood surfaces will routinely have a range of visible stains and flaws that may range in varying degrees of severity. The most typical will be fungus, gray weathered patinas, and corrosion or rust staining from fasteners.

A few of these stains, simply cannot be removed 100% of that time period. The success or failing in removing these flaws would depend on the amount of time since it was last refinished and other factors. A flawless finish is not always possible, but you can simply make it look far better then it did, and in most cases you can make it look fantastic. My suggestion is to clean and rinse a little sample section first. Allow it dry and then seal or stain it with the merchandise you intend to make use of. Then you can certainly make a determination as to whether it is acceptable or not.

I'm going to list the key factors for chlorinating and cleaning wood below with explanations and descriptions for each. Again, none of this is rocket technology, and none of these methods are hard to accomplish... but they are essential nonetheless, and result from years of experience.

High Pressure Versus Low Pressure

Ruthless washing is by no means a good thing when it comes to wood. It's Alright to still use a power washer, however the machine ought to be used more as a heavy duty, glorified power wash rather than a cutting tool. The typical technique of bearing down on hardwood with a power washer is an improper technique and really should be avoided since it can damage the wood and possibly force drinking water into areas that cannot correctly drain. The right method is to use low pressure methods for the application of bleach and for the rinsing process.

Power Washer versus Pump-Up Sprayer

For solid wood siding or overhangs that look like in good shape with hardly any mildew or weathered stains, a pressure washer using a pick-up tube for the bleach solution will continue to work just fine generally. However, if the siding is usually noticeably flawed with plenty of mildew, then a pump-up sprayer will do the best job. As I mentioned in Part 1, with all the pressure washer's pick-up tube for drawing the bleach from the bucket, it will be diluted at least 10 to 1 1 by enough time it comes from the tip. Utilizing a pump-up backyard sprayer allows you to control the strength of the solution.

Normally, I recommend a 50-50 mixture of water with store bought bleach and a little amount of TSP replacement for detergent with all the backyard sprayer. if the solid wood is definitely in really bad shape, or if the 50-50 mix isn't removing the mildew within 20 minutes, switch to full power bleach. The TSP substitute can be bought at any paint shop and for the most part hardware shops. Painters have been using it for years and it's really very inexpensive. Just stick to the directions on the box and you'll be fine.

Bottom To Top, Bottom level To Top, Bottom level To Top!

Applying the bleach answer from bottom to top is the most significant, no compromise rule that needs to be followed in the event that you intend to finish your wooden siding with a clear semi-transparent finish. When you apply the bleach option from bottom to top, you eliminate the risk of streaking because the bleach solution is only going to have the ability to drip and run onto a previously wetted out surface.

If you were to use the bleach from the very best down, it'll be jogging and dripping onto a dry surface area and can probably streak and stain the solid wood, leaving very hard or impossible flaws to eliminate. I can't stress enough the need for this simple but extremely important approach, and easily could add anything compared to that https://www.washingtonpost.com/newssearch/?query=New Jersey it would be to go corner to https://gumroad.com/u4tlkoc448/p/are-you-getting-the-most-out-of-your-power-washing-nj corner aswell. So, to re-cap.... it's bottom to top and corner to part!

Putting EVERYTHING Together

You should have a far greater understanding of how exactly to remove mold, mildew and weathered patinas from wood siding properly, enabling you to turn back the clock on the aged looking wood finish of your house. In Part 3 of the series, I'll show you the easiest method to remove paint from masonry areas and more tips about how to complete the power washing following the chlorinating step is certainly complete.